Bar Shiki: Cocktails From Another Dimension

As you know from our last posts, there is no shortage of quality bars in Japan. But every now and then, there comes one bar that takes things to a hitherto unforeseen level and leaves me in complete awe.

Located on the second floor of a nondescript building in Shinsaibashi, Bar Shiki is one such place. The door that opens to the bar is unadorned, which is in complete contrast with what is hidden inside. A strikingly beautiful mahogany setup lies behind the small 8-seat counter, adorned with carefully chosen ornaments. The well-groomed bar master, whose cream tuxedo perfectly complements the warm colors of the place, greets the new customer with a smile.

What is truly impressive about the first sight one has at Bar Shiki’s counter is the bottles on display. From whiskies to herb liqueurs, this is a carefully curated collection of rare bottles. And then, there are unlabeled bottles that contain homemade syrups along with jars of herbs and spices. Bar Shiki is meant to be a cocktail bar, but it feels more like an alchemy laboratory, and the bar master as a surreal magician.

There is no menu here. You describe what kind of cocktail you want to drink. Intrigued by the many bottles of the Hungarian herb liqueur Unicum on display, I ask for a refreshing Unicum cocktail. After a a few minutes of mixing mysterious ingredients, the bar master serves me a deep dandelion-colored liquid garnished with a sprig of sage. While I admire the elegant beauty of this concoction, he explains me the recipe. Unicum, extra-ripe melons, lemongrass, elderflower cordial, white wine reduction, and sage. I take a perhaps overly enthusiastic sip having heard this alluring recipe.

That first sip. It tells me everything I need to know about the bar master’s skill. On the palate, there is so much going on. The fresh and sweet melon is at the center of things, but wrapped up by a myriad of fascinating flavors, from a zing of spiciness to the slight bitterness of unicum. But what is even more impressive here is the texture of the drink. I hardly have the vocabulary to describe such texture. It is somehow like drinking liquid crystal. It’s served in the temperature of a frozen smoothie but its much lighter than that. This is a drink that will remain in my memory for a long time.

Next, I feel almost hesitant to ask a new cocktail while still feeling the ecstasy of the first one. Seeing the variety of homemade syrups, I ask the master to make use of them and create something floral. His recipe: syrups of wild rose, hibiscus, and lavender, with a base of bergamot-infused gin, garnished with bay leaf. This one is served in a narrow-lid glass for me to really savor its perfume.

On the nose, the aroma is very much like a zesty curry due to the overwhelming presence of the bay leaf. This, however, is a trick of the magician. On the palate, the other components whose presence are masked by the bay leaf come alive. A dance of floral and citrusy flavors make for another fascinating drink. The harmony of different components that is achieved here should be the benchmark of any cocktail.

The enthralling creations of Bar Shiki are bound to impress even the most skeptic customer, as the bar master seems able to conjure something for everyone’s taste. His is an incredible display of technical flair, humility, and excellence. Bar Shiki is surely a must-visit when in Osaka, and it might just be a reason to visit Japan by itself. A true destination-bar for the lovers of cocktails and rare spirits.